A couple of months ago, I purchased a copy of "Textile Raw Materials and their Conversion into Yarns" by J. Zipser. The frontspiece says:
This book was published in London in 1901 and I could not find anything that makes me feel that it has been reprinted. Which is too bad, as it is an excellent book.
(The Study of the Raw Martials and the Technology of the Spinning Process)
Textile, Trade and Higher Technical Schools, As Also for Self-Instruction
Based upon the ordinary syllabus and curriculum of the Imperial and Royal Austrian Weaving Schools
Translated from the German
What follows is a description on how to sort a fleece for wool combing. Please remember that the book was written for industry.
Before passing to the spinner the wool must be sorted, i.e., such parts of the fleece as are uniform in fineness, length, and other properties, must be placed together so that the various grades may be employed in producing the kind of goods for which they are most suitable. Frequently only three kinds are made into cloth works, whereas, on the other had, in worsted mills, where the sorting has to be performed with great precision in order to reduce the combing waste to a minimum, as many as four to eight grades are often made.
The task of sorting is easier when the wool is in unbroken fleeces, the different parts being then readily recognizable, so that the various classes can be placed separately.
The conditions are different when the wool has to be sorted loose. Moreover, in any case the work takes years to learn, and requires a good eay and a precise knowledge of the purpose for which wool is intended.
The finest and best wool of the fleece is that on the shoulders, a. Then follow in order of merit the wool from the flanks, b, the sides of the neck, c, and the hips, d, these four forming the best parts of the fleece.
Inferior grades are obtained from the withers, e, saddle, f, croup, g, throat and breast, h, the top of the neck, i, thighs, k, root of tail and breech, l, head, m, and skins, o.
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